Is Summer Over?

Just like the Kahuna in the movie 'Gidget' it's time to pull out your Airline Pilots license and call it a summer.

My feelings are mixed right now with our fall season on the way. Everyone including me always talks about how great our waves will be once we get into October-December, but deep down inside there is the nostalgia of needing to put on minimal rubber and be in the ocean.

I know the reality of the kids going back to school and clearing the lineup for the smaller group of die hards, but with the economy deep in the toilet, it seems we have too many people in the water who might have had legitimate careers a few years back.

But I am nostalgic. There is some sadness and loss of the long days of summer. I started surfing at 11 years old dead in the middle of summer. I watched the terrible Beach Blanket Bingo surf movies with great anticipation. Would Frankie get Annette? Would Moondogie go back to school? Would I be able to stand up on a surfboard by summers end?

“Every new beginning comes from some other beginning's end.” Seneca

Soul Sacrafice

I found myself watching the best performance of the Woodstock Festival. I was a bit too young to be there or want to be there, yet here it is.

Regarding Quivers

I went to my old college roomates house last week. He is a bicycle guy. He competed a the highest level back in the day. We went to his garage and he tentatively showed us all of his bikes. He must of had about 8. He had all kinds of excuses and stories about why he needed each bike. It was funny because Lucas looked at me like 'only 8?'. He sent me this video of the ultra bike geek:


But I had to let him off the hook. I sent him pictures of the surfboards we had less Logan's board (he was surfing) and Lucas' beach back Donald Takayama. It's true we have no less than 16 surfboards. And I still think I need another board for the winter.

No I haven't mastered the 'Big Red' masterpiece from Murphy.

But, I won't apologize. Every board has it's place or sentimental value. I spent good times with these boards and each time I give one up I feel a loss. Silly yes. Will I change and bring the mean number of boards down.......

Never!!!!

Banned

French pool bars Muslim woman for 'burquini' suit

I don't even know where to start on this one. Should they have banned the burquini or the 1983 'rocket stinger'?



Then on the other hand it is banned? I have to err on the side of freedom of speech. Here in America The First Amendment is extended to the generous sense of 'expression'. So I think I have to fight for the 'burquini'.

Why not just head up to Santa Cruz during the winter in a 5-4 with a hood? This would limit chances of a culture war in a strange Muslim v Parisians bikini v burka frey.

And it just looks ridiculous.


No worries I will pop on my Bikini and yamaka and catch a couple of waves in Dubai.

The 'Bu

The Pier Kick Out
The Bu Ouch! Don't tell Chris Miller
The Crowd
The Start
The Noseride

Watching for the next swell

Don't worry another swell will be here soon. Until then it will be log time.

I'm Not Worthy!

My new 10'2" Noserider from Mr. Murphy. I took it out for the second time today and started to get used to it. My kid was able to hang ten on it on the first wave.

Me not so much. But I am starting to cross foot and go towards the gray line. I had it put back a bit further so I could fake a nose ride. But, hanging 5 and 10 is red belt stuff. My work is cut out for the summer.