Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Mid Holiday Field Report


We have had surf! It is the swell season that keeps on giving. This is a great time to take off work. This week between Christmas and New Years has always been good to me.

We surfed Sano, Grandview, Cardiff and Swamis. Schedule as follows:

6:09 am Wake Up
6:10 to 7:23 Farmville....

Yea I know the Farmville thing is out of control but perfect for my intellectual capacity post surf sessions.

Anyway back to the schedule.....


7:40-8ish- Breakfast

8:12-8:29- Surfline, Wavewatch, Surfshot, Wetsand

8:30 Go Surfing



We have been surfing for about 3 hours. I haven't been able to do double sessions except surfing last Wednesday till dark or until I could not see.

Afternoon: Eat

Watch movies, play more Farmville.

I have been avoiding the news except for the Underpants Bomber and enjoying Karl Rove's divorce.

Nightime we have been watching movies and eating leftovers.

Repeat.....The holidays are awesome

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Gentrification is not a crime

Three Stages of the gentle class

Halfway


End of summer
Gen-tri-fy

Verb

1. gentrify - renovate so as to make it conform to middle-class aspirations;

"gentrify a row of old houses"; "gentrify the old center of town"
freshen up, refurbish, renovate - make brighter and prettier; "we refurbished the guest wing"; "My wife wants us to renovate"

Has our sport been gentrified? Yes. Is it a bad thing. No.

Like the cities that have renovated their downtown's there are negative reactions. Somewhat to the tune of 'we have lost our soul, the Petit-bourgeois has come and ruined everything we had.

Well naysayers I detract from your theory. If surfing was better when everyone was high and the violence in the water was the norm, you can have the good old days.

I clearly remember coming into a classroom and the teacher would tell you 'your a surfer sit in the back'. The change has happened. Us parents who grew up surfing when it was considered a pursuit of the stoned and stupid decided that our kids could enjoy the ocean and still be productive.

We have by a non scientific survey of parents at surf contests, have made sure that our kids are doing well in school and we use the leverage over teenagers that has stopped all trouble before it starts. We use surfing itself. "You want to surf, get good grades". Simple logic has changed everything for the surfers my kids hang with. On both surf teams grades are brought out and discussed openly. In high school surf team homeroom they have to produce and explain anything lower than a B.

The retired successful surf team coach from San Clemente High School is a Grandview regular. He made his team have a 3.4 GPA to compete. He told me he got sick of parents complaining that their kids were becoming surf bums. Some of his kids complained, but he said" I have 30 kids all at the highest level competing for 11 spots. I would rather get some complaints from the kids than hear anything from the parents or my boss the principal"

SDA Surf Team homeroom consistently achieves the highest GPA. Kids not doing well get a full attack from team mates and older kids who are doing well.

Soul or not, now that I am a parent I need to see the grades. They are the first currency our kids will earn. I don't want my guys to miss one opportunity for a quick fix of a few waves. The surfer / athlete paradigm shift is complete. After all you want to get to a place in life where you can surf and live by the surf. A few hours of study afterschool and an activity that looks good on your college app is a ticket to the life they and we aspire to.

Gentrification is not a dirty word.

Monday, December 21, 2009

Second at Seaside


Sometimes these NSSA contests are good just to go out at a spot with only 5 other guys in the water. Yesterday at Seaside Reef Lucas got to surf his way into a 30 minute final. The waves were about as good as Seaside gets, placing second was the bonus.

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

The Sustainability Dichotomy


di⋅chot⋅o⋅my

–noun, plural -mies.
1. division into two parts, kinds, etc.; subdivision into halves or pairs.
2. division into two mutually exclusive, opposed, or contradictory groups: a dichotomy between thought and action.

I have had my Firewire for almost 19 months. Which is a lot for me. The problem is that this board looks brand new! You can't ding it if you try.

How. do. you. justify. a. new. board.

Over the last few sessions I noticed that it seemed heavier. I looked at the tail and there is a small crack in the glass over the balsa. So I emailed the company and inquired if this board might have taken on water...if so what do I do etc.

These bastards got right back to me. Here is an email from the boss, I left his ding repair guys number in it for a shout out to my seven readers......

Hi Aaron,
Sorry to hear about your board. It sounds like your taking in water thru a ding somewhere. Place the board in the direct sun to create pressure in the board. This will force water from any place the board is leaking. Once you identified the dings let the board dry (in the sun) for a couple days. Make sure you place the board using gravity to dry out the dings. Once the boards stops dripping and the weights back to normal you can have it repaired. It will go back to the original weight. I have a great ding guy in Oside who's very reasonable. His name is Mark McGinnis and his cell is 760-420-5982.
Oh yea tell your wife Xmas is coming and you need to expand your quiver. Thanks for surfing our boards!

Michael Milliken
National Sales Manager

Mike, your killing me. It sounds like this thing will be like brand new. Oh well at least I have wetsuits to buy!