David's Friend Chad got this picture of Jake and Lucas from the water at Cardiff.
Back in 1978 I was in Hawaii at Off the Wall with my friend Terry Callahan. It was head high and good. Terry had a water camera and got a movie of me killing it. He then made the mistake of giving me the camera. Terry preceded to get the wave of the day; off the lip, tube and huge cutback. When he rushed to the store to get the movies developed my waves looked like a surf movie. His waves were a study of the horizon and the deck of my surfboard. We teenagers so he reacted rather poorly. I got a black eye. He broke his hand.
But I never learned. Back in 1994 in the summer The Wall was going off. David had a water camera and Dean, David , Ed and someone else was out. They were going for tubes. It was awesome. David get completly tubed. In fact everyone went for the complete tube and got worked. 'Kodak Fever' was rampant that day. I was in the water for three hours taking shots of the guys going for close out tubes and then getting obliterated!
David goes running to the store to have the pictures developed and yes you know the story. It became a scene from Shelly's Frankenstien. The Surfers (as I remeber it maybe a slight exaggeration) were coming at me in a towns riot with torches and pitchforks.
Then a few days later the waves were pumping but I had an ear infection. Ed gave me his camera. Ed was ripping! But when the movies came out all he saw was the ants on the ground next to me. The insult to injury was me singing to myself songs from 'Guys and Dolls'.
The moral is don't give me the camera!
