We hit the swell. The locals are calling this the swell of the year on the South Shore. This is Populars Waikiki next to Queens.
Sometime in the summer of my teens when we had to hitch hike to the beach with our boards, we found a ride from some guy who was stuck in the 60's. After spending the good part of the day trying for our ride this guy pulls up in an old vw and takes us to the beach. We pulled up to a flat Stockton Ave in Santa Cruz to see one little wake hit a rock.
Hippie old surfer dude...... "The Rock Shows Swell"
Surf Crazed kids..."Are you out of your mind"
Hippie old surfer dude...."Mellow out man it is all in the plan"
At which time my friend came over the seat to clock the poor guy but was stopped before contact by my back pack.
Hippie old surfer dude..."Out, Out of my car"
Logan ripping the left this morning.
Lucas on an air drops in the eye of the storm.
Well admit it, your flying in the plane for about five hours and then, there is that moment when you finally see the Islands. It really is why you came. The planning, dreaming and as we are older the logistics of a surf trip have all been labored over and over thought. Yet when you see the Islands there is a pure sense of stoke. Now imagine yourself at 12 years old.
