Arriving in style to Cottons. Like the rest of Southern California we lined up early on Friday Morning. I was trying to sneak a few before work. This is the line to San O. We got a kick out of the limo-surf mobile in front of us.
And when we arrived we found Cotton's point looking quite a bit like Peru! It was way overhead. As Lucas and I were waxing up a guy comes out of the water wide eyed.
Somewhat Wacky Surfer......"I almost drowned out there!"
Us......"Really" and thinking thanks for sharing idiot. Nice way to get us in the mood for big waves.
Somewhat Wacky Surfer......"I got held under for two waves. It was bad..and I surfed big waves all over the world this was bad.
Us...."You ok now"
Somewhat Wacky Surfer.... He was already on to the next group of surfers getting ready to paddle out. It was like the scene in Apocolypse now when they saw the crazy guy by the bridge on the way into Laos. I telling sign.
We took some lumps but got some great waves.
