So should I feel guilty surfing on Friday? Let's see:
NO! Look at this!
Friday was not supposed to be good. If you believe the reports. I decided to go at the last minute and when I pulled up to the parking lot it was full. I saw David's truck (Kodak Fever), Chris Miller's truck (he is good luck for waves with me) Eds Bike (he will surf anything) Of course that is what people say when they see my vehicle.
There was an unfortunate picture on google earth of my truck in the Grandview parking lot. It kind of says you surf too much. I have tried to summon up some guilt, but I kinda am proud that a snapshot of my life was surfing.
This picture of the glassy lefts summarized our day.
Chris was getting all the best waves this day. David put this into black and white pretty cool.
Here is Chris again. Everytime the sets came he was right there. Even when he tried to give you one it still came to him.
This was my last wave. I wish you could have seen this guys face. I seem to get a look of terror anytime I get close to someone I don't know when I am surfing. It is a 'don't let this giant guy kill me!' look.
We watched Ed get this one from the take off. When we watched this wave we mused that we do get good waves at our little spot. The conversation was that if we just showed these pictures to someone and told them we went to West Oz for vacation and got this spot with no one out they would say what an insane trip!
That's all. I will get to Saturdays competition blog later...long story....great expectations meets Puerto Escondido. stay tuned.
