Showing posts with label surf well in the morning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surf well in the morning. Show all posts

Monday, November 23, 2009

A Surfers Guide to Thanksgiving / How to surf in the morning without being sent to the kid's table 1.2




I love Thanksgiving! A real holiday for a surfer. The idea of showing up and eating has hit my core values. Although our waves on Thanksgiving have been a bust over the last few years (6 it's been reported by local sources), I have scored great waves over the years on T Day. There are some rules, decorum and to do lists to survive this day with success.


From Surfline
LOCAL NORTH SAN DIEGO SURF FORECAST (Surf sizes are face heights of the front of the waves)
Thursday 11/26 SURF: 1-2 ft - ankle to knee high occasionally 3 ft. and poor to fair
conditions.
Friday 11/27 FAIR TO GOODSURF: 3-5 ft. - waist to head high and fair to good conditions.
Possible, new WNW swell builds in; Thanksgiving according to Wetsand, But Surfline is telling you to bring out your log.

Who Cares either way, you have to surf this day! I have successfully surfed almost every Thanksgiving since I was 13 years old and done the family thing too. Here are the rules:


1) Do not leave San Diego

(Pic from National Lampoon Vacation)
...
unless you are going to a surf destination. We live in San Diego if your relatives need you to come to dinner with them in Kansas they have things backwards. The last time I left on Thanksgiving it was 4-6 foot and 80 degrees and I got in a car with my 1 and 3 year old boys to drive for 8 hours to Nor Cal OUCH!

2) Pick your time of battle.
Most Thanksgiving meals start between 3-5 meaning you have to surf before noon, which brings us to rule 3.

3) You need three hours to surf.
My coaching is that you go from 8-11am. This gives you time to get up early and do something before you leave..offer and complete three chores before you leave (watch the young kids, get out the tables, go to the store..etc.) You can still be back by 11:30 showered and ready to help.


4) Do something.
You should know how to make some dish. Don't do the Turkey that is advanced and too time consuming. Make mashed potatoes, or a green been dish or some gravy. Have one thing you can do that is conspicuous and keeps you from getting the look like you have not done anything. If you can't make something bring something good. Buy the expensive wine, spirits and real Coke (not Diet) for the kids.



5) Manners!


I Know you have been up since 5am and surfed three hours, but this is one day you can't plop on the couch holding the clicker in the fetal position with your blankey over you. You have in laws and relatives you only see once a year. They will talk fondly of you during the year to your spouse. This investment is golden like you shorted the bank stocks in July. When your wife calls her relatives and friends to complain that you spend your weekends on the couch post surf with blankey they will stand up for you. Make a good impression, offer the older people drinks right away, hold small children.


6) Be interested not interesting!


No one cares about the good left you got at Cactus Wall this morning! Really! Save it for Friday in the lineup where your friends will understand. Logan told me he started his first year of Middle School trying to hang out with his old pals from Elementry school However once he found the surf team, why hang with anyone else when you are 12 years old. His team mates will be able to tell tall tales of surf and surfing over and over again to eachother with the same stoke as we used to. Your family does not want to hear it again. This day is a great dayto keep your family stories alive.


7) Drink Early not often.


The buzz you get around 4:45 will keep you going until 7. But you can't get hammered. This is bad form especially with children and the parents around. Not being able to hold your liquor is like bailing your board while paddling out on a small day.


8) Let the Family Feud Go.

Even though your sister may have thrown you off the pier at 9 years old let it go. Your in the Switzerland of holidays and you surfed for three hours! More than that this is a good day to talk with someone you don't know or learn something about one of your relatives.

9) Leave Early You have been a good guest who is always doing something nice. You don't have to stay all night. You can leave early with confidence.

10) Enjoy it. This is one day you can surf and you know that work won't call. You don't have the Christmas present drama and you got to surf and eat.

In the end it still live on as a great holiday. You wake up Friday morning and still have a three day weekend with a solid swell heading our way. Enjoy it.

Friday, February 20, 2009

Swell Scan

I'm trying to resist looking at forecasts but this guy has been spot on for a long time. He forecasts for Wetsand and has his own blog Swell Scan

The latest looks encouraging.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Wild Bachelor Weekend

Yes I know it looked bad when I went out this morning.

I really didn't think there would be any surf, but it was glassy if not junky this morning so I paddled out anyway. Thinking this might be my only shot before the oncoming storm, I went out and surfed by myself. After about 30 minutes the whole crew showed up. And surprise the waves were fun. It was a great surf this morning.

I was looking forward to a weekend by myself.

Right here in the middle I ponder the long weekend with no one around. Don't get the wrong impression, I am looking forward to having a weekend with no responsibilities.

Here is the score:

Wife- At wedding in the Northwest
Daughter 1- At wedding in the Northwest
Daughter 2- At Youth and Government in Sacto
Son 1- At friends house
Son 2- At his Mom's house

What do you do on such a long weekend alone.

Perception




Vrs. Reality



So I have several choices of things to do to include but not limited to:
XBOX, Full Season 3 of 24, Junk Food, Naps, Seeing my parents, developing a new play list for my ipod, more junk food and a nap.

But,now that it was fun surfing today. My whole plan becomes more complex. I now have too much to do. I have to admit right now my real problem. I broke out my kids xbox and put in this game. Just like Coca Cola, chocolate and snazzy tequila drinks I am hooked. Like a junky I can't.put.down.the.controller.


Maybe I need the real world of kids, job and wife back to keep me on some track of sanity. This schedule free weekend has been busy so far and it's only Saturday night. The surfing thing, various junk foods have to be bought. There is the taped tv shows I need to watch and now I have this addictive xbox game.

But, as I pick up my controller and go 'once more back into the breech' .

I better set my alarm.....after all I have a busy day tomorrow.