Wednesday October 23
David Gray had his camera out and I had to surf. Here is a beautiful picture of Lucas at sunset at Cardif
I surfed today after Matt called and said the waves were good. I had no choice just look at the water.
In the light of our economic turn it seemed like every surfer I ever met was down surfing today. A conversation with unnamed sources went like this "I tell people I am a semi-professional surfer and that is why I surf all the time." The response was- "I don't tell people I have become a pro surfer but I think I am becoming an amature executive!"
Still turning hard at 253lbs
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