The It

I saw my Friend Jason last weekend , who I haven't seen since I was in El Salvador a few years ago. It was one of those surf trip moments we all have when you are in the middle of nowhere surfing some secret spot and there is someone from your lineup at home just sitting there like we are going to go to Roberto's at session end.

Anyway he was riding this wild board and absolutely killing it! They call it the 'It'. So as I was coming home from Los Angeles early this morning I snuck into Jack's in Huntington and saw an 8'6" model.

Now with no knowledge of how boards work or what the hell I should ride I want one!

Most of the time I get a custom surfboard the shaper takes one look at me and shapes me a 3.5 inch thick tank even if I bring in a 9' high performance longboard it comes out as a 9'6" monster tanker. "This is the board that will work for you!" they tell me....

I surfed today

Wednesday October 23

David Gray had his camera out and I had to surf. Here is a beautiful picture of Lucas at sunset at Cardif

I surfed today after Matt called and said the waves were good. I had no choice just look at the water.

In the light of our economic turn it seemed like every surfer I ever met was down surfing today. A conversation with unnamed sources went like this "I tell people I am a semi-professional surfer and that is why I surf all the time." The response was- "I don't tell people I have become a pro surfer but I think I am becoming an amature executive!"

Still turning hard at 253lbs