20-10 or Two Thousand and 10

Christie's friend Theresa always wanted to surf. This New Years (unfortunate birthday when you are a kid) Theresa finally had her chance. Hannah was ready to help. With everything working well:

Water: 57.2
Swell: 6ft @ 13 Seconds plus a wind swell
Tide: +7.2
Crowd Factor at Cardiff: Every Sweeper this side of Orange County

Perfect day to go


Hannah swam out with Theresa and she go out right in front of the rocks on the south side of the river. I was a mere spectator. Then Hannah got her into a wave....she came down the 3 foot peeler....and started to get up...tentative at first than she was up!!!! A goofy foot was born! All was going well until we watched Theresa make her first wave and head right for the rocks! Uh Oh... The cops happily parked at the end of the parking lot getting their triple overtime with no one bothering them and every local got up and said AAAHHHHH! Look out!

I was a bit under the weather and not planning on doing anything be spectating ran and put on my wetsuit to try to keep her away from the danger. She caught a couple more until she couldn't stand up.

In the end Theresa was stoked. Here she is post surf learning quickly that the post surf life of a surfer. There is no drug you can buy Theresa or no class you can sign up for to get this feeling. You can only earn this high by getting in the water.

She loved the experience and is ready to charge the lineup. Is there room for one more stoked goofy foot girl with a great attitude?

Always!!!!!.