Dugan left us

For my non-surfing followers Dugan was one of the 'good guys' in life He really was a part of the fabric of surfing Leucadia. He must have been a good 15 years older than me. And, Dugan would be out surfing when the waves were huge... mostly sans wetsuit suit even in the winter.

From the Leucadia Project

"Anyone who knew Dugan had respect for him. He was a one of a kind sort of guy who was a living link to surfing's past. For the past 12 years that I have surfed Grandview I have been both inspired and humbled by him. On the days that I would wear a 4/3 he would trunk it. On the days that I was nervous to paddle out, he would be out at the crack of dawn (in trunks) taking off on the biggest sets. On the small days when the surf was flat he would entertain me with stories of the places he's been and the people he met along the way.
Dugan was a true waterman, a living legend, and a friend to all he surfed with. He lived life to the fullest and made a lot of friends along the way. Personally I will never forget him. This world and our little surf spot he called home were better places for having him.
Good bye Dugan. We will miss you."
Ed

I can't say that I knew him all that well, yet it really hit me when I read Ed and David's blog this morning. Dugan always went out of his way to say hi to me and he could not have been more stoked for me as my kids started surfing. I can say that he always put a smile on my face when I saw him.

'If the waves are big and the only other guy out is Dugan, It's time to go in' (my axiom on when the waves are too big)

"True religion is real living".... Albert Einstein

Saturday surf contest and theories thereon

Saturday will be full of drama, complications and variables.

Contest at Moonlight/D Street. Home field advantage and all .

Einstein says that "Politics are more complicated than Physics" Al is obviously not competing this weekend in the ISF San Diego Middle School Contest.

Here are some of the variables this weekend:

Weather- Rain could cancel the contest if the storm hits on Saturday. FridayPatchyFogHi 67°F
FridayNightMostlyCloudyLo 50°F
SaturdaySlight ChcRainHi 63°F
SaturdayNightSlight ChcRainLo 51°F
SundayChanceRainHi 55°F

Waves- There is a big spike on the Wavewatch forecast for 10 foot waves hitting on Sunday. If the waves come early, D Street will look like.... well, D Street on a 10 foot day.

Even the most macho of all 13 year old surfers will come down with mysterious illness and maladies if they show up to D Street looking more like Waimea Shorebreak. So far Einstein's theory on complications proves wrong! The physics are much more complicated .

These kids can surf. The competition will be tough.

But wait! Lucas the ultra smart kid forgot to do his math homework and be a good citizen in PE. He now is in the paradox of having an ice cube lodged in your throat and choking. Can the ice cube melt before you choke to death. Read- can he do the extra credit in PE and ace his math test.

If he doesn't work hard on getting back up to all A's and B's he won't have to worry about a figurative choke. Physics will prevail!