For my non-surfing followers Dugan was one of the 'good guys' in life He really was a part of the fabric of surfing Leucadia. He must have been a good 15 years older than me. And, Dugan would be out surfing when the waves were huge... mostly sans wetsuit suit even in the winter. From the Leucadia Project
"Anyone who knew Dugan had respect for him. He was a one of a kind sort of guy who was a living link to surfing's past. For the past 12 years that I have surfed Grandview I have been both inspired and humbled by him. On the days that I would wear a 4/3 he would trunk it. On the days that I was nervous to paddle out, he would be out at the crack of dawn (in trunks) taking off on the biggest sets. On the small days when the surf was flat he would entertain me with stories of the places he's been and the people he met along the way.
Dugan was a true waterman, a living legend, and a friend to all he surfed with. He lived life to the fullest and made a lot of friends along the way. Personally I will never forget him. This world and our little surf spot he called home were better places for having him.
Good bye Dugan. We will miss you."
Ed
I can't say that I knew him all that well, yet it really hit me when I read Ed and David's blog this morning. Dugan always went out of his way to say hi to me and he could not have been more stoked for me as my kids started surfing. I can say that he always put a smile on my face when I saw him.
'If the waves are big and the only other guy out is Dugan, It's time to go in' (my axiom on when the waves are too big)
"True religion is real living".... Albert Einstein
